Art Deco architecture and exotic fauna were some of the inspirations for Maison Boivin, whose creator is affectionately referred to as “the jeweler of the intelligentsia”. French jewelry house Boivin is associated with some of the most original and impeccably crafted jewelry of the 20th century. Founded by René Boivin in 1890, it produced non-traditional pieces that were popular with aristocrats, artists and intellectuals, earning the nickname “the jeweler of the intelligentsia”.
Inspired by distant lands, Art Deco architecture and exotic flora and fauna, the brightest and most daring designs emerged under the guidance of the widow Renée Jeanne, who drew on the talents of three remarkable designers, including the couple’s daughter Germaine.
SEMI PRECIOUS STONES AND ORGANIC MATERIALS
In 1905, Boivin created the first Barbare pieces inspired by Assyrian, Egyptian, Etruscan and Celtic traditions. Anticipating the wave of Orientalism that was to sweep the world of Art Deco jewelry, the Maison created avant-garde pieces such as this 1910 amazonite five scarab necklace.
Boivin was one of the first jewelers of his generation to use semi-precious stones and organic materials such as wood and ivory, laying the foundation for the company’s style in the 1930s and 1940s.
The Corde bracelets shown below date from 1928. With twisted strands of silver and gold beads at each end, they quickly became Boivin’s signature pieces.
FLORA IN BOIVIN JEWELRY
René Boivin had a passion for nature and was an experienced gardener hence the naturalistic reproduction of daisies, lilies, orchids, roses and other flowers in his jewelry.
The flower theme continued after René’s death. In 1937, a 1900s design inspired several orchid brooches, the first of which was bought by Daisy Fellows, fashion icon and Parisian editor of Harper’s Bazaar.
In addition to eye-catching designs, innovative techniques, including the use of caliber-cut colored stones as in the Convolvulus brooch below have helped make Boivin jewelery stand out.
The amethyst and pink tourmaline tree brooch shown below was created by Germaine for her mother’s 80th birthday in 1938. She was artfully fitted with a series of folding plaques bearing the names of the designers and master jewelers who had worked with her parents over the years.
BOIVIN HERITAGE
After Jeanne Boivin’s death in 1959, her daughter Germaine continued to run the Maison. The business then passed to Jacques Bernard, designer of Boivin, and then to the Asprey Group. The House of René Boivin finally closed in the 1990. But his jewelery beautiful, innovative and always ahead of its time is perhaps more valued now than ever.
