Jewelry

Egyptian style jewelry

Gold Pharaoh necklace with carved citrine, circa 1820.
Gold Pharaoh necklace with carved citrine, circa 1820.

So, it is best to start this story with Napoleon Bonaparte, more precisely, with the Egyptian Company, undertaken in 1798-1801 on his initiative and under his direct leadership. The main goal of the Egyptian expedition was to attempt to conquer Egypt in order to limit the influence of England, France’s main rival, in the region. The company was unsuccessful for the French army, but had important consequences for science. During the expedition, the Commission of Sciences and Arts worked, which collected and exported to Europe a huge number of historical monuments.

On August 22, 1798, Napoleon signed a decree establishing the Institute of Egypt, consisting of 36 people. One of the results of the Institute’s work was the monumental “Description of Egypt,” which created the preconditions for modern Egyptology. The Rosetta Stone, discovered during the expedition, opened up the possibility of deciphering ancient Egyptian writing. The mysterious and magnificent history of the ancient civilization of Egypt has aroused interest not only in scientific circles. Society was captivated by the fashion for everything Egyptian, from architecture to jewelry.

Gold winged brooch with a carved image of a moonstone pharaoh surrounded by snakes, circa 1860.
Gold winged brooch with a carved image of a moonstone pharaoh surrounded by snakes, circa 1860.
Gold Theban Scarab brooch pendant, decorated with guilloché enamel and garnet, Robert Phillips, London, circa 1865.
Gold Theban Scarab brooch pendant, decorated with guilloché enamel and garnet, Robert Phillips, London, circa 1865.
Set of gold jewelry with micromosaic brooch and earrings with the image of a pharaoh, circa 1880.
Set of gold jewelry with micromosaic brooch and earrings with the image of a pharaoh, circa 1880.

The first Egyptian-style jewelry, dating back to the 1820s, was inspired by ancient Egyptian symbolism depicted on the walls of Egyptian temples: scarab beetles, sphinxes, pharaohs and hieroglyphs. Images of the pharaoh were often carved on semi-precious stones in the form of a cameo or relief, usually wearing a special headdress made of striped fabric called a nemes.

Of all the objects discovered by archaeologists and treasure hunters in the tombs and burials of Egypt, ancient jewelry was perhaps the most attractive to the public, intriguing for its extravagance and unprecedented symbolism. Many jewelry workshops, such as the company of Karl Bacher (Vienna), specialized in the development of jewelry in the Egyptian style. By the end of the 19th century, when the fashion for jewelry in the archaeological style had practically disappeared, the Egyptian style in jewelry received a new continuation in the Art Nouveau aesthetics.

Clock in gold, decorated with Egyptian enamel, David J. Magnin, Geneva, circa 1880.
Clock in gold, decorated with Egyptian enamel, David J. Magnin, Geneva, circa 1880.

Howard Carter’s discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922 was greeted with incredible enthusiasm by the public and became the impetus for a new wave of Egyptomania. Jewelry in the Egyptian style of the Art Deco era became one of the most luxurious and magnificent examples of imitation of the jewelry of the kings of Ancient Egypt.

Silver gilt necklace of intertwined snakes, decorated with enamel and garnets, France, circa 1880.
Silver gilt necklace of intertwined snakes, decorated with enamel and garnets, France, circa 1880.

For two centuries now, the charm of the images and symbols of Ancient Egypt has inspired jewelers from different countries to create jewelry in the Egyptian style. Interest in such jewelry changed over time, faded away and was revived again. Such jewelry is also created in our time. After all, every woman sometimes wants to feel like the queen of Egypt.

Gold earrings set with diamonds, rubies and enamel, Pharaoh's face carved from two natural purple amethysts, Carl Bacher, Austria, circa 1870.
Gold earrings set with diamonds, rubies and enamel, Pharaoh’s face carved from two natural purple amethysts, Carl Bacher, Austria, circa 1870.
Gold ankh pendant with emerald, 2022.
Gold ankh pendant with emerald, 2022.
Christian Dior Egyptian style necklace with faux turquoise scarabs, 2004.
Christian Dior Egyptian style necklace with faux turquoise scarabs, 2004.
Scarab pendant in lapis lazuli, set in gold, circa 2000.
Scarab pendant in lapis lazuli, set in gold, circa 2000.
Gold brooch in the form of a pharaoh's mask, coral, turquoise, diamonds, sapphires, Trio, circa 1980.
Gold brooch in the form of a pharaoh’s mask, coral, turquoise, diamonds, sapphires, Trio, circa 1980.
Egyptian style scarab necklace, gilt, enamel, carnelian, Adrian Mann, London, circa 1970.
Egyptian style scarab necklace, gilt, enamel, carnelian, Adrian Mann, London, circa 1970.
Hathor presents the ankh to Queen Nefertari Merenmut, a painting from her tomb.
Hathor presents the ankh to Queen Nefertari Merenmut, a painting from her tomb.
Art Deco pendant necklace with ankh, gold, diamonds, enamel, France, circa 1930.
Art Deco pendant necklace with ankh, gold, diamonds, enamel, France, circa 1930.
The most famous image of the Hieracosphinx is in the Temple of Horus at Edfu. The name was coined by Herodotus (484–425 BC), a Greek historian, during his journey to Egypt.
The most famous image of the Hieracosphinx is in the Temple of Horus at Edfu. The name was coined by Herodotus (484–425 BC), a Greek historian, during his journey to Egypt.
Art Deco brooch with the image of the Hieracosphinx (incarnation of the god Horus with the body of a lion and the head of a falcon), gold, enamel, early 20th century.
Art Deco brooch with the image of the Hieracosphinx (incarnation of the god Horus with the body of a lion and the head of a falcon), gold, enamel, early 20th century.
Clip on earrings in Egyptian style, set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and onyxes, Lacloche Frères, Paris, 1925.
Clip on earrings in Egyptian style, set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and onyxes, Lacloche Frères, Paris, 1925.
Art Deco silver brooch with carved turquoise pharaoh flanked by sphinxes, decorated with enamel, circa 1920.
Art Deco silver brooch with carved turquoise pharaoh flanked by sphinxes, decorated with enamel, circa 1920.
Rare Art Deco brooch with carved lapis lazuli pharaoh, set with diamonds, ruby, pearls and enamel, circa 1920 1930.
Rare Art Deco brooch with carved lapis lazuli pharaoh, set with diamonds, ruby, pearls and enamel, circa 1920 1930.
Winged brooch in silver with a carved opal scarab, decorated with stained glass enamel, Austria, circa 1915.
Winged brooch in silver with a carved opal scarab, decorated with stained glass enamel, Austria, circa 1915.
Egyptian style jewelry Gilt silver pendant brooch in the form of an amazonite scarab surrounded by stylized peacocks, decorated with stained glass enamel, circa 1920.
Gilt silver pendant brooch in the form of an amazonite scarab surrounded by stylized peacocks, decorated with stained glass enamel, circa 1920.
Egyptian style jewelry Egyptian style scarab necklace in hammered gold with enamel wings and lapis lazuli, jade and coral beads, Marcus & Co., circa 1905.
Egyptian style scarab necklace in hammered gold with enamel wings and lapis lazuli, jade and coral beads, Marcus & Co., circa 1905.
Egyptian style jewelry Art Nouveau necklace in silver with stained glass enamel, Levinger und Bissinger, Germany, circa 1905.
Art Nouveau necklace in silver with stained glass enamel, Levinger und Bissinger, Germany, circa 1905.
Egyptian style jewelry Scarab opals have an incredible palette of iridescent colors in shades of yellow, green, blue, purple and pink, perfectly complementing the rich color of amber.
Scarab opals have an incredible palette of iridescent colors in shades of yellow, green, blue, purple and pink, perfectly complementing the rich color of amber.
Egyptian style jewelry Gold necklace with amber and scarabs in carved opal, circa 1900.
Gold necklace with amber and scarabs in carved opal, circa 1900.
Egyptian style jewelry Gold brooch in the form of a carnelian scarab, decorated with diamonds and enamel, St. Petersburg, 1899 1908.
Gold brooch in the form of a carnelian scarab, decorated with diamonds and enamel, St. Petersburg, 1899 1908.
Egyptian style jewelry Silver pendant with stained glass enamel in Art Nouveau style with carved image of a pharaoh in jasper, circa 1900.
Silver pendant with stained glass enamel in Art Nouveau style with carved image of a pharaoh in jasper, circa 1900.
Egyptian style jewelry Gold brooch with carved image of a pharaoh in red jasper, Maison Birks, Canada, circa 1890.
Gold brooch with carved image of a pharaoh in red jasper, Maison Birks, Canada, circa 1890.