Brooch Lakenbut

Luckenbooth gold brooch with citrine, Edinburgh.
Luckenbooth gold brooch with citrine, Edinburgh.

Sometimes jewelry is just jewelry. We evaluate how they fit the outfit, how modern they look, and how well they express your personality. And there are jewelry that have symbolic meaning, such as a wedding ring. The tradition of exchanging wedding or engagement rings is widespread throughout the world. But there are also special decorations that have a similar meaning and are associated with national traditions. This is the Scottish Luckenbooth brooch.

Золотая брошь Luckenbooth с жемчугом и цитринами, Эдинбург.
Золотая брошь Luckenbooth с жемчугом и цитринами, Эдинбург.
Citrine pendant brooch set in gold with pearls, circa 1950.
Citrine pendant brooch set in gold with pearls, circa 1950.

The Luckenbooth brooch is a traditional Scottish token of love and is given as an engagement or wedding brooch. Most often, the brooch has the shape of a heart or two intertwined hearts topped with a crown. The usual material for brooches was silver, although such brooches were made of gold for wealthy buyers. Silver was considered a “talisman for good luck”, and was also an affordable material among ordinary townspeople. Silver brooches were sometimes decorated with garnets, semi-precious stones, or “precious stones” made of glass and enamel. Brooches were sometimes engraved with initials, dates or mottos and featured Scottish motifs such as the St. Andrew’s Cross or thistle in the design.

Luckenbooth brooch in gold.2
Luckenbooth brooch in gold.

The name of the Luckenbooth brooch comes from a group of seven Luckenbooths tenement houses that were located on the Royal Mile near St Giles’ Cathedral in Edinburgh. Luckenbooth is Scottish for a locked stall or workshop. The first floors of the houses served as shops where jewelry and trinkets were sold, including this type of brooch. These were the city’s first permanent shops, built in the 15th century, and were originally home primarily to goldsmiths and silversmiths. Later, other establishments appeared: bakeries, hairdressers. The Luckenbooths houses were demolished in 1817.

Luckenbooth citrine brooch of similar design in silver, John Hart, Edinburgh, 1970.
Luckenbooth citrine brooch of similar design in silver, John Hart, Edinburgh, 1970.

This brooch is sometimes called “The Crown and Heart of Scotland”. One of the legends about the Luckenbooth brooch says that it was a pledge of love given by Mary Stuart to Lord Darnley. Sometimes the stylized monogram “M” of the executed queen is woven into the design of this brooch.

Luckenbooth gold brooch with citrine, John Hart, Edinburgh, 1978.
Luckenbooth gold brooch with citrine, John Hart, Edinburgh, 1978.

Another, less popular story states that it was an engagement brooch given to her by the Dauphin of France, whom she later married.

Today, Luckenbooth can still be bought from small traders along Edinburgh’s Royal Mile.

Luckenbooth amethyst brooch set in gold with pearls, Edinburgh.
Luckenbooth amethyst brooch set in gold with pearls, Edinburgh.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold and silver with diamonds, rubies and pearls, circa 1910.
Brooch Lakenbut in gold and silver with diamonds, rubies and pearls, circa 1910.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold and citrine, circa 1900.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold and citrine, circa 1900.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold with citrines and pearls, circa 1900.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold with citrines and pearls, circa 1900.
Victorian style Luckenbooth double heart and bow pendant, silver, gold, diamonds, circa 1880.
Victorian style Luckenbooth double heart and bow pendant, silver, gold, diamonds, circa 1880.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold and silver with diamonds and emeralds, early 19th century.
Brooch Lakenbut in gold and silver with diamonds and emeralds, early 19th century.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold.
Luckenbooth silver brooch with diamonds, early 19th century.
Luckenbooth silver brooch with diamonds, early 19th century.
Royal Mile, Edinburgh.
Royal Mile, Edinburgh.
Silver Crown and Heart of Scotland brooch featuring Queen Mary's monogram in blue enamel, a thistle motif and a crown set with garnets and pearls.
Silver Crown and Heart of Scotland brooch featuring Queen Mary’s monogram in blue enamel, a thistle motif and a crown set with garnets and pearls.
Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, unknown artist.
Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, unknown artist.
The Lakenbuts on the 1784 plan of Edinburgh.
The Lakenbuts on the 1784 plan of Edinburgh.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold with the inscription on the back As God decreed so we agreed, early 18th century.
Luckenbooth brooch in gold with the inscription on the back As God decreed so we agreed, early 18th century.
Luckenbooth brooch in silver, believed to be the work of Hugo Ross, Edinburgh, 18th century.
Brooch Lakenbut in silver, believed to be the work of Hugo Ross, Edinburgh, 18th century.
Luckenbooth brooches from the 18th – 19th centuries.
Luckenbooth brooches from the 18th – 19th centuries.
Luckenbooth brooch in silver and citrine, John Hart, Edinburgh.
Luckenbooth brooch in silver and citrine, John Hart, Edinburgh.